Mathura of Today
As per mythological belief Mathura is eternally enjoying the protection of Krishna's fabled wheel (Sudarshana Chakra). For a visitor, the walled city of Mathura is the place for chaste Brajbhasha, peda, dahi (curd), milk, and of course its divine posterboy— Krishna. `Radhey, Radhey! chanting pandas keep alive the township's age-old culture and are always ready to recount innumerable anecdotes related to the lilas of their dear Lord Krishna. Howsoever incongruous it may seem, the congested walled city with its century-old buildings, ahatas, bagichis, akharas and galis–has gelled well with modern antiseptic Mathura. Though the ancient tin lok se nyari Mathura is gone, yet the modern small town continues brimming with enthusiasm and life. A century or more back, the ancient mounds gave way to the mansions, havelis and kothis and now these crumbling mansions are being marred or demolished to make way for residential colonies, commercial establishments and multi-storeyed apartments. The historically oldest structures of the city chronologically are–Satiburj (17th century), Manoharpura's mosque (Ahmad Shah's period), Jama Masjid of Chowk (Aurangzeb's times), Idgah Masjid (Aurangzeb's period), Dwarkadhish Mandir (19th century), old Museum (19th century), Lala Babu's cenotaph (19th century), Collectorate (1860), and Sacred Heart Catholic Church (19th century). It is difficult to come across an original walled city house today. Old era is gone and so has its architecture and lifestyle. Today's generation does not realize what a treat it is to live in huge, spacious, airy mansions, hence only a few dozen houses have got old dalans, sahans and small gardens in their courtyards. Multicultural flair still exists in the city hence adherents of every creed and religion have got their place of worship here. While the Jama Masjid of Chowk dominates the landscape of the old walled city, the spires of Krishna Janmabhumi temple have got an aura of highest religiosity. JambuSwami Jain temple of Chaurasi and Sacred Heart Church of Sadar Bazar have got their own believers. The entire walled city of Mathura always bustles with activity as there is one festivity or other through out the year.
Chaubes of Mathura
(न केशव समो देव न मथुरा समो द्विज)
(Na Keshava samo deva na Mathura samo dvija)
[i.e No god like Keshava, and no Brahman like a Mathuriya Chaube.] Thus is said in the Varaha Purana about Krishna and the Chaubes of Mathura. Since then little has changed in Chaubes. They are a peculiar race and must not be passed over so summarily. Till middle of 20th century they were very celebrated as wrestlers. Their Bhuteshwar Akhara (arena) was popular far and wide in whole of North India. In the religious Sanskrit text `Mathura Mahatmya', their learning and other virtues also are profusely extolled. Extremely fair in colour, sporting tilak on their forehead, wearing rudraksha beaded garlands in their necks, frequently chanting `Radhey, Radhey' while greeting each other, sporting crisp muslin kurti and dhoti they may always be seen with their portly forms lolling about near the most popular ghats and temples. One of their most noticeable peculiarities is that they are very reluctant to make a match with an outsider, and if by any possibility it can be managed, will always find bridegrooms for their daughters among the residents of the town. Hence the popular saying:
‘मथुरा की बेटी गोकुल की गाय
कर्म फूटे तो अन्त कू जाय’
Which may thus be roughly rendered: `Mathura's daughters and Gokul's cows will never move out while fate allows.' Because as is implied, there is no other place where they are likely to be so well off. In the later half of 19th century a considerable migration of Chaube populace was made to Mainpuri, where the Mathuria Chaubes now form a large and wealthy section of the community and are in every way of life better than the parent stock. On important festive occasions bhang-rolling groups of Chaubes are a sight worth enjoying. They complete the masti (revelry) of Braj.